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Tomatoe seed days to mature

Your browser's Javascript functionality is turned off. Please turn it on so that you can experience the full capabilities of this site. I've been gardening and writing about gardening for more than 20 years, yet I find I'm always learning new things about the plants, insects and other critters that call my backyard home. That's the great thing about gardening — it's never boring!
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Tomatoes require 50 to 90 days to reach harvest depending on the variety from transplanting. Tomatoes are commonly grown from seedlings started indoors that are later transplanted into the garden. Tomato seeds are commonly planted indoors as early as 8 to 6 weeks before the average date of the last spring frost. Tomato seedlings are usually transplanted into the garden 1 to 3 weeks after the last frost. If an unexpected frost threatens, transplants must be covered and protected. Early-season tomatoes require 50 to 60 days to reach harvest from transplanting; mid-season tomatoes require 60 to 80 days; late-season tomatoes require 80 or more days. In hot summer-mild winter regions such as USDA zone 10 or warmer, tomatoes can be grown as a fall and winter crop.
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I remember the first time I bought seeds for my garden. It had me looking more closely at other dates of maturity on my seed packets: 80 days for melons, 65 days for cucumbers, 90 days for sweet peppers, days for winter squash. Sometimes the numbers were off by several weeks, and sometimes they were right on point give or take a few days.
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I was ready to move my sad-looking early tomatoes from the garden to the compost pile when I remembered something important. This spring, I used the last seeds of our favorite early tomato, open-pollinated Stupice, so I needed to collect and save a fresh supply of seeds. My first step was to collect a few ripe fruits free of cracks or bug holes, which can serve as entry points for disease microorganisms. As a precaution against cross-pollination with other varieties, I choose fruits from plants that were grown apart from other tomatoes. I also bypassed double fruits, which are especially prone to crossing with other varieties because of their unusual flower structure.

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